FashionPeddler.com Fashion News

Next week, I am going to New York City to scope the market & trade show scene for Fashion Peddler. I am trying to figure what to wear, especially with weather as capricious as a John Galliano fashion show. I prefer to pack a versatile wardrobe requiring minimal upkeep. Since it is New York City, I’ve been hunting for multifaceted designers & discovered German label Reality Studio. There is virtually no biographical information on the label, but the name behind Reality Studio is Svenja Specht - a former graphic & costume designer. The spring line is seasonally & fittingly titled Botanik - inspired by the botanical world. The 27 piece collection is beaming with netting, soft tie dyes, cream hues, and touches of lilac. The pieces will lovingly oppose the asphalt jungle of the city with the lithesomeness of an orchid.

The Fashion Peddler mailbox is briskly filling up with A/W 2009 look books. One designer noted Givenchy as an inspiration, so it cued me to Givenchy’s website. I had all but forgotten about this revered fashion house. I was aflame with excitement to read that Riccardo Tisci was promoted to oversee all Givenchy collections in 2008. The Italian designer is responsible for the power, Gothic looks that have brought much needed attention to the brand. On the website, Tisci says that he creates “beauty that has a hint of menace.” We covet these pants from his A/W 2009 men’s collection. By the time, one laces up into these leather trousers, it just may be the next fashion season.

One more eminent European designer posted losses for 2008. Prada announced a 22% profit reduction for 2008; around $129 million. However, the 96 year old black label saw 5.6% gain in sales due to the LG Prada mobile phone. Prada’s sophisticated phone beats Dior’s $5,000 Swarovski-encrusted cell phone. Prada is roughly $1.6 billion in debt & they attempted to boost capital by selling Fendi to LVMH. Prada is also aiming to restructure it’s debt to fund expansion efforts. They opened 20 new stores last year for a total of 210 stores globally. Could Prada be next for an H&M capsule collection to raise some quick cash?

We just reported that Halston is hiring & interviewing for a new creative director. One contender is Austrian-Greek London-based designer Marios Schwab. Schwab grew up in Greece impassioned to become a ballet dancer or an architect, but at 15 opted for a career in fashion. His designs are evocative of Azzedine Alaia & 1990’s form fitting silhouettes. His is also devoted to the use of draping & bondage-like binding. Schwab considers himself an “impossible perfectionist,” which won him the 2006 British New Designer of the Year award. The inspiration behind his S/S 2009 collection was “rocks that crack over time due to climate change.” Black dresses (plus one red & one day-glo pink) were shown with meticulous & conscientious slash marks revealing daring peek-a-boo colors underneath. Schwab recently collaborated with Scorah Pattulo on a line of women’s shoes. If his grand success continues, then he just may be as big, if not bigger, than Nintendo’s Super Mario Brothers franchise.

Hugo Boss foresees the closing of it’s American factory in Cleveland, Ohio by 2010. The  maufactory employs 400 workers producing 70% of Hugo Boss USA & it’s numerous subsidiaries. In 2001, Hugo Boss posted $970 million in profits, but the German-based clothier had a 27% profit loss in 2008. The Brooklyn, New York factory, which turns out 600 men suits per day, will also cease production. It’s parent company, Valentino Group, is also in major arrears. During World War II, Hugo Boss made uniforms for the elite German paramilitary forces. Considering the state of world affairs, perhaps they can take a lesson from history… I suggest redesigning the new digital camouflage of the American military to something more stealth & save a few jobs.

In fashion, Alexis is an imperious name as in Alexis Bittar & Alexis Mabille. Both are astonishing, young men storming the fashion world. Today, we spotlight French designer Alexis Mabille. His name was slipped to me by a colleague obsessed with bow ties. Mabille designs two collections: an apparel line called Impasse 13 & his fantasy bow ties under the label Treizeor. Mabille formerly worked for Ungaro, Nina Ricci, Dior, and Yves St Laurent. In 2005, he started his unisex line Impasse 13. I was floored by the detailing, the craftsmanship, and themes. I spent nearly an hour viewing his 2009 collections. His S/S 2009 collection explores themes of school & military uniforms with a fairy tale glamour. Think Gossip Girl meets Contes de Fees. His inspiration for the S/S 2009 collection is documented on his site & it was like reading a fashion thesis. Sofia Coppola is purported to be an admirer. Could Alexis Mabille be Marie Antoinette reincarnate?

Supermodel Giselle Bundchen is one humming girl… two separate weddings to her new husband, Tom Brady, being a step-mom, traveling, photo shoots and all the rest of it. The new Mrs. Brady is apparently busy winning on bets, too. Since December 2008, she has won in upwards of $1 million on Italian football team Inter Milan. Giselle seems recession-proof as the 16Th richest female entertainer in the world with an estimated networth of $150 million (independent of her husband). Occasionally, girls just want to have fun…

There will be a Jimmy Choo sample sale on 30 April 2009 in New York City. The sale will be held at The Metropolitan Pavilion located at 125 West 18Th Street. My informer tells me 60% off retail prices including shoes, handbags, and other accessories. If there is anywhere to stimulate the economy, I would do it here!

In the modern era, the icons of fashion have been replaced by celebrities. Every other “personality” is creating a clothing line. There is one outstanding bastion of couture today: la donna grande Anna Piaggi. She is a writer for Italian Vogue & Vanity. It was her renowned double page spreads that roused me at the age of five to create fashion layouts & collages. In 2006, she catalogued a personal collection of 2,865 dresses & 265 pairs of shoes. Anna Piaggi is the muse of milliner Stephen Jones who creates each one of her peerless hats. Whom do you consider a style icon today?

One of the perks of working for Fashion Peddler is how many different trade shows you become privy to. I died a little death when I heard about the MICAM trade show in Rome. MICAM is the bi-annual international footwear exhibition. It is sponsored by the National Association of Italian Footwear & it is considered the preeminent event of its kind in the world. There are nearly 1,611 exhibitors attracting 37,000 visitors. The event spans eight building across 730,000 square feet of shoes! Yes, there is a shoe heaven. The next MICAM will be 16-19 September 2009 for the 2010 seasons.